

Here are most of the mothers from the community during a meeting for a government program. Prior to taking this picture, I was in the middle of this same crowd doing a little piece of water health education. In general, I’ve been poaching any large meeting I can find and using it to teach about water quality and the need for filters. Parents’ Groups, Mother Groups and Baby Weighing Days have all been graced by the “water guy.” People are eager to see the water tests from their community and seem to enjoy my little interactive lesson. Little by little, people are learning what they need to protect the health of their families.
As part of the education piece, I’m also continuing to distribute filters. 40 more are out so far.
The San Jose Festival was also in early April. Beyond the usual silently-consumed-with-great-great-haste eating of tomales, the day was punctuated by a forest fire! Yup, in the heart of the dry season they see it fit to set off lots of low-quality fireworks. Not surprisingly, one lit the hill in front of the church on fire.
We controlled the fire quickly-enough such that there was no big loss, but it gave me a great, fun(?) scare! Do I look like I just fought a forest fire with a bucket?
The men of “the little mountain” before heading out for a day working on our newest piped water project. I’ve been monitoring and managing this effort, which is progressing well.
Can you see the trench for the water project, going straight down the hill? (Note the difference in color compared to photos from the beginning of my time here. All green has been replaced with brown. It hasn’t rained a drop since November. When they say the “dry season,” they mean the “DRY season!”).
And then, of course, there was “Semana Santa,” or Holy Week. Here in Honduras where everyone is Catholic (at least in word), Holy Week is the biggest holiday of the year. Most people take all or most of the weak as their only vacation of the year. This photo was taken during one of the many Holy Week church services here in San Jose. The whole week was filled with relatively-silent Honduran-style celebrations…
One tradition is to walk down to the river and bathe. I made the trek with my friend Lazaro (who had TB) and a few other younger men and enjoyed a very hot day on the river. For the first time in my life I was considered to be a good swimmer and a brave rock-jumper! It pays to be the only person who grew up in a place with water.
During the wet season there is only one bridge to cross the river, and this is it. It’s affectionately called “the hammock” and is made of barbed wire and boards. Even the Hondurans were nervous to cross it! This is Lazaro, braving the (tilting) “hammock.”
And then, the night before Easter there is a late night vigil in a local house. This photo doesn’t show a lot clearly, but it gives a good feel for the candle-lit (simply because there is not electricity), small, dirt inside of the house where the vigil was held. The whole night was 5 hours of “mass,” the rosary, ….
…prayers to shrines of their patron saints (Which you can see behind Paulino and Paula, who wanted a picture with the shrines), and…
strange foods! This is “atole of corn,with roasted cacao seeds.” It’s basically a corn mush with stuff that tastes like burnt coffee beans. I tried my best to drink the whole gourd full, as they all did quite quickly, but I couldn’t quite get it down.
And finally, after a week of enjoying their customs and being welcomed into their homes, I invited everyone to my house for a great Malek tradition: decorating Easter eggs! People thought it was strange and funny, but it was a surely a hit. They made some pretty fine eggs, given I could only find watercolors and crayons as our materials…
After 7 months getting talked-up by Mateo, Kirsten was already a living legend in San Jose before she even arrived. When she swooped in on her umbrella, though, she really confirmed her place in San Jose lore forever! OK, so the umbrella was just for the sun (as many women-of-means use in Hondu), but even without a flying entry, Kirsten did indeed live up to her legend.
It’s always interesting how having another person from “outside” makes you notice things differently. For example, the sunsets. I never have/take the time to stop and appreciate the sunsets, but while Kirsten was here, we made the most of the opportunity to stop, appreciate and have a sunset conversation.
This is my neighbor’s house in the evening. Kirsten took a fondness to my neighbor’s dog, “Tigre.” Despite my not-so-subtle objection, she tried to revive his scrawny frame with a few morsels from our dinner… on several occasions. Lucky dog!
Kirsten didn’t waste any time getting to know everyone… not that she really had any choice! On the first evening she was here, church got out and she was suddenly the center of attention for a very curious assembly of some 25 people, a veritable “who’s who of San Jose.” She handled it bravely, and even remembered a few of the names. On the third day, we went to the Sunday market in Rancho Quemado (the closest “town” to me on the “big road”). At no moment during the market were there any less than 20 eyes on her! We tried getting a representative photo with a little crowd of teenagers hovering around her, but this is the best we could get.
But, you ask, what did we “do” during the week? Think “pinguinos y pies” (penguins and feet)…
First: Penguins. Prior to coming to San Jose, Kirsten translated “The Penguin Song” into Spanish, with the hope of teaching it to kids at the various San Jose schools. “The Penguin Song” is a camp-type song about how to walk like a penguin, i.e. right arm, left arm, right leg, left leg, move the head, turn in circles. It’s VERY catchy, and when sung and danced by two gringos, VERY entertaining.
So, we set up a visit to the San Jose Centro school and the Portillon school, and showed up to each with a whole program of education and fun.
We would start by reading a children’s book, Kirsten in Spanish and I in English. We were pleasantly surprised to find that ALL the kids, from Kindergarten through 6th grade, were absolutely entranced by this. After, we donated the books to the schools for the kids to read themselves.
Next, I would put on my “doctor” hat and do a little lesson about water cleanliness. I would hand out a bunch of the water sample plates from my recent research (like the ones I have posted photos of on this blog before) and ask them to tell me what colors they saw. Once I had a good list, I would hand out the clean plates, and we would discuss the difference and how you can make your water change from colorful to clean. Little by little, San Jose is becoming a community of water health experts!
And last, but surely not least, Kirsten would teach a little about penguins, and then we would do “The Penguin Song.” It was HILARIOUS! Perhaps as good as seeing the kids grin and spin like penguins, though, was the aftermath… In the following days, as we would walk around “town,” Kirsten and I started hearing, yelled in little, hidden voices, “pinguinos!” Her legend grows.
And number two: Feet. We walked a lot. Despite the very un-Rochester heat, Kirsten braved the mountains of San Jose as we did a bunch of follow-up visits for the research. Here she is, descending on the far side of Guanacaste, in an isolated region known as “La Pimienta.” We tried to make it look steep, but still it’s steeper than it looks. Ask her.
Victorina Sanchez and her 3 daughters. Kirsten and I waited at this house for Victorina to return from gathering firewood, and in the meantime, Kirsten had a great conversation with the daughters. Different people reacted very differently to Kirsten: some would ignore her and just address me, others would just stare at her and say nothing, and others (mostly the women) would be open to her attempts to start conversation.
I’m speaking for someone besides myself here, but I would say this variable reaction may have been one of the most difficult parts of the trip for her. Us Americans are, culturally, outgoing conversationalists with equal respect for men and women. To be in San Jose, where the culture is quiet and reserved and the women are oppressed, is quite the shift.
This is Felicita, Francisca, and Mariano, from left to right. Since this picture was taken, Mariano has died. Why? Putting it as gently as possible, Mariano died simply because he was poor and uneducated in a poor, uneducated and underserved community in the mountains of Honduras.
Mariano was one of three patients diagnosed with Tuberculosis (TB) by the brigade last November, along with my good friend Lacero. Lacero got proper treatment and is now entirely healthy, cured, happy and back at work. Mariano went to the hospital, where he stayed for a month while he received treatment for his TB and his lung that had collapsed as a result of the advanced TB. In December, the discharge note described him as “improving,” and instructed him to come back in a month to get the next phase of his TB treatment and to check his chest wound (from the chest tube placed to fix his collapsed lung). Unfortunately, neither Mariano nor his wife can read, and apparently the hospital staff didn’t communicate very well; so, when they left the hospital, they thought the month of TB treatment they had been given on discharge was everything they needed for him to be healed. In fact, he needed another 5-7 months of carefully observed treatment.
From December until March, all I heard about Mariano from those in town was that he had gone to the hospital and that he was now back home.
I ran into Mariano’s wife a day before Kirsten came and she asked if the brigade had a program to give food to sick people. She said she needed it for her husband who was “really skinny and wasting away.” We don’t have such a program, but I found some old (but still good) food supplements in the store room. So, while Kirsten and I were out by Mariano’s house for filter visits we stopped by to check in and see if this food help was really needed.
What we found was a man on his deathbed. His room smelled like the Mother Teresa Hospice in Ethiopia, with that unmistakable smell of a wasting-away human body. His wife said his treatment hadn’t worked, and since January he had been getting worse. Beyond that, she didn’t know anything about his condition. He had stopped swallowing solids a few days ago and she was now feeding him Coca Cola as a last resort.
I asked for the hospital discharge sheets, which she had but couldn’t read, and thereby gathered the history of miscommunication and unfinished treatment I have just told.
Kirsten and I hid our anger and grief and asked if they still wanted to try to improve his condition. They very much so did, and so we gave them the drinkable food supplements and arranged a home visit, ASAP, by the local nurse, to get the ball rolling on starting treatment once again. He died before the nurse got there.
This is the face, the story, and for us, the smell, of one of those “millions of preventable deaths” that you hear about in the news. Personally, we couldn’t quite decide which bothered us more: that Mariano had died of an easily treatable disease or that his family was so accustomed to loss and hardship that they felt their father’s death at age 49 was acceptable.
We’re going to do what we can to make sure that nobody from San Jose is ever dropped by the system like this again.
Back on the road, here was a family at another home visit, the interview nicely done in Spanish by Kirsten. Note the beautiful purple filter!
Kirsten has a way with kids. Here she is getting a rise out of Veronica and Sandra, two girls she had befriended at school and then found again at their house during a visit. Nice shades, Sandra!
And of course, we played some soccer. Well, maybe I shouldn’t say “of course,” because I had only played a few times before Kirsten’s arrival. But anyway, Kirsten befriended these little guys and then we went to play an evening soccer game at their house. (They are, from left to right, Santos, Sandra, Paulino, Marcos and Priscilla, ages 13, 9, 14, 5 and 6, respectively. Yes, seriously, those are the ages, and yes, that’s what malnutrition will do to you.) We, and they I believe, had a blast! They were adorable, loved Kirsten, enjoyed the attention and were very respectful.
In the end, I would wager to say that the soccer game was a fitting activity for our final night in San Jose. It captured well the relationships, connections and local savvy that Kirsten picked up, and the shared adventure and joy that we both experienced during her time in San Jose.
Until Kirsten comes again in May, I look forward to running into little reminders of her around San Jose as the kids yell “pinguino!” and adults rave about how “bonita” was “Christina.”
-mateo












Argentina, the younger daughter of the woman who owns the source, posing with the slow sand filter, prior to remaking the filter. On a scouting mission of the filter, we had a jolly time hitting mangos out of the tree with rocks. She was grateful of my big-boy arm, but I was equally impressed with her quite-powerful little-girl arm! And yes, I did sing her “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina,” by Madonna.

Ah yes, another big time-eater: our new piped-water project! Here I am on delivery day of all the materials for our new piped water system in a cluster of houses called “The Little Mountain.”
Love this photo. It was supposed to just be a group photo of the 11 families receiving piped water, but then two women hauling water walked by. The folks on the stack of pipes will soon never more bear the physical, nutritional and educational burden of hauling water like this. Yeah!


Here I am with Paublina and (some) of her kids. The house is courtesy of the government of Germany.

And with Wilson (a scholarship recipient), Vicente, the grandmother, and Lidia.
Ok, time to meet my much-awaited guest! We (Kirsten and I) will surely have plenty more stories to tell quite soon.
Love to all,
mateo
Here I am at the hotel the night after arriving, participating in my ritualistic pre-arrival head-shaving. Without a shower, short hair is a LOT more pleasant!
Their feet. This framed-up quite accidentally when I was adjustig a setting on my camera, but I found the image quite powerful. I find it striking what they hike in, and what it does to their feet and legs. That said, they are from one of the "wealthiest" families in Portillon and, here, would be considered lucky to be wearing any shoes at all. Every once in a while I need a reminder that "wealthy" here is still really poor, and that poor here is just straight-up inhumane.
... and one more, just to prove that I was actually involved in this photo process.
This is a photo of Regina Cabrera, a winner from San Jose Centro. In Honduras, young women are generally very reserved and timid, especially around males of power (like myself). Prior to the scholarship meeting, Regina had never really looked me in the eye, instead deferring her eyes to the ground. When I announced her name, however, she stood up, walked straight to the front of the room, held her head high, smiled a big smile, looked me straight in the eye and shook my hand with great gusto as she took her certificate. It was a pretty magical moment.
All households came on the day of material delivery to carry the parts down to Portillon. Here is at least one person from each of the 31 recipient houses. Note the smiles!
Sorting pipes into equally-sized “carryable” bundles (each weighing more than 60 pounds).
Pilar, the community-elected president of the project and a good friend of mine, standing guard over the tubes.
I wouldn’t be smiling if I was taking off for an hour and a half hike with that much weight on my shoulder (don’t be deceived by the size of the bundle, there is steel pipe slipped inside the PVC!), but hey, I’m not getting water at my house, either!
On each day of digging trenches, each household was responsible for digging 6 “work units” of 8 meters in length and 2 feet in depth. Usually, three people from the same household work together on their household’s part, one to break the stones with a pick-axe, one to scoop out the loose dirt with a shovel, and one to follow up with a little pick thing to do touch up. Here is the family of Bersabarino working on their segment.
Finished trench, snaking across the hills.
Trench surfing!
Trenches dug, it was time to lay and attach all the 4km of piping. They worked as a unit, a few people laying the pipe, one cleaning the end, one sanding the end, one holding the PVC cement, one applying the cement, etc.
A crowd gathers as the last joint of the day is placed.
Water! The workers rest at the end of the day, as the newly-connected spigot brings water to the house. You’re looking at several hours less of hauling water every day, which means several hours more for the women and children to parent, play, study, learn and grow and several hundred more desperately-needed calories that aren’t burnt needlessly. It’s a beautiful thing!
This is Cirilia, one of the elder people in the community of Guanacaste, admiring her new cookstove. Note the soot-covered walls, evidence of her prior open fire pit that she previously used to cook.
Tomas and his family with their improved cookstove (and, if you look carefully on the left, their filter!).
The two “directors of the cooperative.” The one in the white is Manuel, a man I work with a lot because he is very involved in all aspects of the community. Note the “Rugrats” t-shirt on the other director!
Isiais, committing to buy his fertilizer under the new program.
This is why the filters are needed! These are Petri dishes in which 5ml of drinking water from different houses have been plated and grown. If the water is clean, it will look like the plate in the upper left. Two houses of the 125+ houses I visited had clean water like this. The rest looked something like the other three: Red dots are bacteria of unknown origin (earth, plants, fecal matter) and unknown health significance (without further testing to further classify). As such, we don’t know if the red-covered plate in the upper right is dangerous or not (but it surely ain’t clean!). Blue dots are bacteria from fecal matter, which are the most dangerous in terms of causing such gastrointestinal illness as diarrhea and stomach pain. The bottom left plate was typical for San Jose. This level of contamination puts it in the “high risk” category for causing gastrointestinal illness, especially in children. The water grown on the plate on the bottom right is, as my mentor likes to say, “chewy with poop.”
About half the plates also grew parasites. Look closely on the left side, a little over midway up, and you’ll see little maggot-like worms. These repulsively gross little parasites crawled around and gave everyone a good fright. I wasn’t happy the water was contaminated with these, since people are drinking this water, but it sure did prove to be a very convincing tool in educating how clear water can be contaminated!
This is what happens when kids drink water that is contaminated with poop and parasites: Look past the cute baby and the older boy in their one nice set of clothes which they put on for the picture and find the naked little boy inside the house (yes, you are looking at a house, in fact, a home to 6)… See his big, distended belly? That’s what a belly looks like when it is full of worms. See his skinny little legs? That’s what malnutrition looks like. This is what happens when you don’t get enough to eat… and then your worms eat for themselves some of the food that you do get… and then you crap out a bunch of your nutrients in your diarrhea… and then you still have to work like a dog to carry water and firewood to the house. This is unjust, and this is why I get so excited by the power of filters, piped water, and improved cookstoves.
Santos washes the loose dirt off of the sand before using it to fill the filter. The filter is the big blue barrel in the back, next to his house. His daughters watch.
The jolly white giant and Santos pose with our newly-completed slow sand filter. Here comes clean water!






Here I am on my porch chatting with a neighbor and Manual (The brigade's community point-man and also perhaps the fastest speaker on earth). Note the rain.
To the great amusement of everyone at the meeting, I took this panoramic while Manuel was facilitating the discussion. I love this photo. This is what it's all about. These are the people it's all about. They are here, they are involved and they're ready to make it happen.
And in case you don't believe that I'm actually doing any of what I say, here's an action shot from the meeting.
Here's one of my new-found friends. Definitely note that he is ridiculously cute (and I have no idea why he decided to pose that!), but also note a few statements about life in San Jose: The stick is firewood for the volunteer mothers to use while cooking the government-provided lunch, likely his best meal of the day. The plastic bag contains all his school supplies: A notebook and a few pencils. He is barefoot. You can't see his teeth, but trust me, you wouldn't want to. Would you want you child learning like this?
In my kitchen with my 4 year old neighbor, Wilson. He and his brother (the photographer) offered me a very warm welcome back.
Did I mention there was a huge tarantula in my kitchen? Well, there was. Here's how he measured up against my machete…. that puts him at about 4 inches in diameter!
I already miss you all and look forward to Christmas-time reunions,
-mateo